Thursday 3 January 2013

Reasons to be cheerful (Pt 4)



Was out with Brian the other day in some pretty good waves when, in between sets, I saw a bee in the water obviously struggling. As I paddled toward it a wave started taking shape, I had a choice, paddle over the wave and help out the bee or turn and go. I turned and I went. The wave never amounted to anything, just backed off and wouldn’t let me in, so I headed back to where the bee was and gently scooped him up. He walked up my palm and onto the top of my thumb where he sat for a while having a breather. He opened and closed his wings and dried them out. 

Beyond the bee another wave was coming and this one was no way gonna back off. I looked at the bee and asked him ‘mate, you ready to go?’ No, really, I did. He turned into the wind, I raised my hand and off he went leaving me just enough time to spin and take a late drop straight into a head high backlit glassy right.

                                     Reasons to be cheerful (Pt 3)

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