This guy wrote a short story (Okay, my blog, my discretionary prerogative. The story was short, maybe 800 words, but it doesn't deserve that categorisation. It didn't end at the last full stop. How great is it when that happens?) It was an attractive English 'backpackerette', it was love lost, but was it? It was in White Horses and it inspired me to write 'Julian'. 'Julian' was published in the next issue of the magazine and along side it was another contribution by the above author. I love it's rhythm, I love it's colloquialisms, I love it's cursing and I hate/love that I can directly identify with it.
Anyway... he wrote to me and told me how much he enjoyed my latest submission and could he publish it on his blog. He posted a link on his facebook page and in the comments box the magazine editor sang praise and gave directions to my other writing... I'm uncomfortably basking (It's taken 3 Coopers and the best part of a bottle of Shiraz for me to get here).
He is Matt Webber, this is his website and the following, by permission, is awesome.
For my non Antipodean readers
'Pokies' = one arm bandits/fruit machine/slot machine.
'Chook' = chicken
'Clubbie' = surf lifesaver
'cunjie' = type of seaweed
The Rock
Sea
breathes in. Sea breathes out.
Prick’s
perched up there like a billygoat on The Rock and making like the director of a
show, one of the grandest magnitude, one where the ocean’s the fuckin’ stage
and we’re but players fighting it out for a cash-in-hand extra’s slot. He barks
his charges in with a machine gun staccato.
Yup.
Yup. Nup. Nup. Yup.
Like
black or red on the fuckin’ pokies.
The
bloke out front levers himself to the spot. He’s a most unsurferly wisp, this
fella. Sunken smoker’s chest. Cheap smudgy tatt on his pale left shoulder. He
get’s a yup. Doesn’t fuck about. Plunges boardlong into the keyhole’s boiling
mush.
Sea
breathes in.
Sea
breathes out.
And
Wispy’s exhaled out the rear, back arched, chook arms chuggin’.
Bird’s
up next, the languid one who you see down here. Turns heads with her Diaz legs
and that blue and white striped mal. Can surf, this one. Nimble. Graceful.
Lean. Her old man’s here a bit, too. Clingin’ to that saggin’ ex-clubbie frame,
the old fella. Cranky lookin’ point-hog, all sunspots and seen-it-all machismo.
That snarl’s foolin’ no one. He knows what they’re thinkin’, these blokes who
ogle his baby. He was one of ‘em back in the day. It’s killin’ him.
She
leaps, his girl.
Sea
breathes in.
Sea
breathes out.
Feet
skyward, she hardly seems to stroke before she’s sucked around the corner and
gone, hair still dry as bone.
My
turn now. Billygoat’s all earnest instructiveness.
Hold on. Wait. Hold on.
Then
he baulks, sits bolt upright.
YUP.
GO. GO. GO.
I
dive into the brine.
Sea
breathes in.
Sea
holds it fuckin’ breath.
World
pauses.
I
battle for the corner, but I’m retarded by a numbskull current that can’t get its
shit together.
By
the time I’m around, it’s a steamin’ gurglin’ wall of fuckin’ white.
*
I
bail.
What
else?
I’m
clamberin’ downwards but there’s no grip in this kind airy green stew. Bubbles
of nothin’. Just like the chocolate. Board gets caught and tugs at me like a
shopping centre mum would her wayward toddler. No fuckin’ idea where I’m goin’.
Hug my arms to my head. Save the noggin. Guessed it wrong. Shoulda thought of
my ribs. How the ages shaped that rock. How they moulded it and cajoled it. How
the tides sharpened it just so. And how the water carries the thud as I
introduce myself to its evolution. I clutch for the pain and as I do drag my
elbow on stone. Skin rips. Salt bites at a new wound.
Sea
breathes out.
Dumps
me on barnacles and whatever other godforsaken fuckin’ gremlins grow on that stone.
Board’s in two bits, both bobbing, the smaller piece still attached to my ankle,
stringers, all three of ‘em, frayed.
There’s
a fuckin’ rockhopper standin’ there. Frozen solid, he is. Bucket and rod and just
gawkin’ like American Gothic oceanside. Useless, he is. I know the feeling.
There’s red seeping from a hole in my side like the one the fuckin’ Romans gave
to bloody Jesus. The one that didn’t even bleed. The one that told ‘em the time
was nigh. The death prod. They teach you that at school. They don’t teach you
to jump The Rock. Note to fuckin’ educators everywhere – get your shit in order.
Sea
breathes in.
I
rise with it and cling to the cunjie too fucked to go further, too scared to
let go.
I
shimmy my way around and cop the cut feet and the grazed gut just to get free.
Safe, I reel in my board’s lower half. Some kid hands me its torso. Blood’s in
rivulets down my shins, dripping off my fingertips. Elbow’s aflame. Rashy’s
been got at by Freddie Krueger.
“Fuck,”
the kid says. That’s all he can manage.
And
up against a clear sky sits The Rock, a fuckin’ great proud slab of conqueror.
Billygoat’s
bailed now, too. Well he fuckin’ might.
Car
park can’t come soon enough.
I
ignore the stares and trudgin’.